DIY Punk Choker: How to Make a Studded Collar Necklace

The studded choker is the smallest project with the biggest return. It takes less than an hour, costs almost nothing beyond the hardware, and immediately transforms any outfit. A leather strip, a set of metal studs, a lobster clasp — that's it. That's the whole BOM.

This guide walks through everything: the exact materials to buy, how to size the choker correctly, the step-by-step build process, and variations that range from classic single-stud row to full collar construction. If you want to skip the DIY and go straight to the finished article, our Spiked Collar Necklace is there. But making your own is worth doing at least once.

More projects: DIY Punk Customization Guide | How to Stud a Jacket

You need exactly these things. Nothing else is required for a basic choker build.

• Leather strip — Vegetable-tanned or chrome-tanned leather in 3/4" (20mm) or 1" (25mm) width. Length: measure your neck circumference and add 4" for clasp overlap and adjustment. Standard starting point: 17" total for a 13" neck. Available at craft stores as pre-cut strips or cut from a larger piece.
• Metal studs — Pyramid studs in 6mm or 8mm work best for a choker scale. The DIY Punk Stud Kit from Velvet Riot includes smaller-gauge pyramids that are the right scale for collar jewelry.
• Lobster clasp + jump ring — A sturdy lobster clasp (12–14mm) and matching jump ring for the opposite end. Lobster clasps are more secure than barrel clasps and easier to do and undo one-handed.
• O-ring (optional) — A 20–25mm O-ring adds a D-ring drop element at the front center. Classic goth collar detail. Rivet it to the center of the leather strip with a double-cap rivet.
• Eyelets or additional adjustment holes — Punch 3–5 holes at the clasp end in 1" increments for adjustability. This is what lets one choker fit neck sizes across a range.

• Rotary leather punch — For stud holes and adjustment holes. Essential.
• Metal Stud Setter Tool — The Metal Stud Setter Tool from Velvet Riot folds prongs clean and flat without marring the leather surface on thin strips.
• Pliers (needle-nose) — For opening and closing jump rings, and pressing any prong the setter can't reach at strip edges.
• Ruler and chalk/marker — For marking stud spacing.
• Scrap wood — Punch on it, not on your table.

Step 1 — Cut and prep the strip. Cut your leather strip to length. Bevel the cut ends with an edge beveler or fine sandpaper to remove sharp corners. If you have edge finish to apply (leather dye at the edges), do it now before punching.

Step 2 — Mark stud positions. Find the center line of the leather strip lengthwise. Mark your stud points along this center line with a chalk pencil. Standard spacing for 8mm pyramids on a 3/4" strip: 12–14mm between stud centers. Mark from the center outward symmetrically so any adjustment in total count happens at the ends.

Step 3 — Punch stud holes. Use your rotary punch at the smallest hole size that lets the prong pass through. Punch on scrap wood. Keep holes centered on the strip width.

Step 4 — Set the studs. Work from one end to the other. Push prongs through from the front. Flip the strip over and use the Metal Stud Setter Tool to fold prongs flat. On thin leather strip, prongs can come through prominently on the back — fold them fully flat so the back of the choker sits smooth against your skin.

Step 5 — Attach the clasp. Punch a small hole at one end of the strip. Thread a jump ring through and close it with pliers (needle-nose, two pairs for a clean close). Attach the lobster clasp to the jump ring.

Step 6 — Punch adjustment holes. At the opposite end of the strip, punch 3–5 small holes at 1" intervals starting 1" from the end. The lobster clasp hooks into whichever hole gives you the fit you want. This is your sizing system.

Step 7 (optional) — Attach O-ring. If adding a center O-ring, punch two holes at the center front, thread a double-cap rivet through both holes and the O-ring, and hammer the cap set. This creates a permanent drop element.

Choker sizing is one of those things most guides gloss over, and it's why a lot of DIY chokers end up too tight or too loose.

Measure your neck. Use a soft measuring tape held at the base of the neck where a choker sits — tighter than a normal necklace, looser than a collar. Add 1" for comfort. That's your target finished-length measurement.

Strip length calculation: Target finished length + 1.5" for the clasp overlap at the end = total strip length. Cut longer than you think you need. You can always punch another adjustment hole; you can't add leather back.

Wear height. True choker position is at the base of the throat — about 1" above the collarbone. A collar (same construction, wider strip) sits at the collarbone. Measure for whichever position you want.

Once you've made the basic single-row choker, these variations take it further.

Double row. Use a wider strip (1" or 1.25") and run two parallel rows of studs offset in a brick pattern. Denser, heavier, more aggressive read.

Mixed hardware. Alternate pyramid studs with cone studs or small round rivets along the center row. Varied heights create texture.

Spike-center choker. One or three screw-back spikes at the front center of the strip, pyramid studs flanking on either side. The spike projects and becomes the focal point.

Collar with D-rings. On a wide strip (1.5"), rivet two D-rings at regular intervals. Attach short lengths of chain between them. This is a collar, not just a choker — it sits wider on the throat and reads more armor than jewelry.

Velvet-wrapped strip. For a goth collar version, wrap the leather strip in black velvet ribbon before punching. The velvet background against silver pyramids is classic Victorian-goth.

Shop the ready-made version: Spiked Collar Necklace →